What's New:
"The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them." - xdabbeb
Instructions:
1) Do a backup in recovery, or backup the original files to be overwritten (check ZIP for names).
2) Flash.
AOSP
1) Flash.
NOTE: If these work on your variant and it's not on the list below, let us know so we can add it.
STOCK ROM
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed
DOWNLOAD - Deodexed (Mirror)
AOSP-based ROM (EXPERIMENTAL)
DOWNLOAD - v2
DOWNLOAD - v1
AOSP-based ROM Notes
The low-light FPS increase may not be in effect.
Burst is not working (but is available and may cause issues).
The intelligent auto does not work in low-lighting.
FC occurs when switching to front-camera, or using Panorama settings.
Confirmed Variants for Stock:
F320KE11
VS98011A (VZW)
D802A
D802B
LS980 (Sprint)
D800
Confirmed Variants for AOSP-based:
D802B
D803
D800 (AT&T)
LG Optimus 2x (P990)
Confirmed ROMs for Stock:
Stock rooted on all confirmed variants.
Malladus (VZW)
Grievous (D800)
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.3):
AOSP
HeatshiverSX (AOKP)
OSE (VZW)
Carbon
PACman
PA
Slim ROM
CM10.2
Confirmed ROMs for AOSP-based (4.4):
PA
Gummy (VZW)
CM11
SlimKat
LucidPhusion
Create a Flashable ZIP Backup
1) If you would like to make a ZIP backup simply download the ZIP file for the update and make a copy.
2) Download a file explorer like ES Explorer or Root Explorer.
3) Open up the update ZIP and look at all the names of the folders, those will be mimicked in your phone's system folder.
4) Check the files within the folders of the update ZIP and note all the names, these will also be mimicked in your phone.
5) Use your file explorer and copy all the mimicked files in your phone to your SD card.
6) Connect your phone to your PC.
7) Move all your files to somewhere easily accessible.
8) Open (do not extract) the update ZIP copy with 7z or WinRAR.
9) Go into each folder (except META-INF) and copy over the files from your phone to the update ZIP copy.
10) Once you are done you now have a flashable ZIP to revert back to your previous state.
Camera NOT Showing in 4.3/4.4 Fix
If the AOSP camera is not appearing in the app drawer, first stop the camera that comes with the ROM, clear that camera's data, and then disable it. Reboot the phone and the AOSP camera should now be present. If it is not, then it is likely disabled. Re-enable it and that should get it to display.
Credits: xdabbeb, sefnap, Jishnu Sur
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Tried this on the Sprint version. Didn't work. First time I installed the apks my phone did a boot loop twice and updated Android. Then I copied all the files into the other locations now my camera FC.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using xda app-developers app
edangel said:
Not working on rooted international stock rom...now i lost my camera...can u pleasepost original camera so i can restore back rather than flashing all over again stock rom to have a working camera??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Thinking about trying this. I'll be smart and nandroid. I'll let you know in about 30 minutes. I'm att
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I was in the process of making some flashable additions for "my" ROM so here goes a flashable update and one to revert.
It removes and adds the necessary files.
Here's a flashable restore: http://www.adrive.com/public/bZgr7H/LGCamera_Restore.zip
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
This did work for me. I over wrote all the files and changed their permissions then deleted the odex files for the gallery and camera. The video focus is not fixed so not really worth the time IMO but thanks for sharing!!
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk 4
I'm playing with it and I've noticed no difference. I'm still getting watercolor photos.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
great work!thx
Looks like viewfinder now is less laggy. And at last i got the menu like in all reviews, before i had a strange Verizon moded camera without pics in menu and without Auto Flash in A.I. mode.
Anyway need to test it in low light conditions in the evening.
xdabbeb said:
If you guys want to hold off for a bit, there are still some other libraries I wanted to sort through for changes. I should be able to do so tomorrow and would be happy to provide the results for everyone if there is interest. My main intention was to get the principal files to Jishnu for his analysis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, just wanted to know if you have any comment on this particular post someone made in another thread regarding the camera:
ZigZagJoe said:
TL;DR: Use sports mode. If desperate, try forcing ISO to 800.
Did some more testing of the camera. Sports mode does indeed bias towards faster shutter speeds - usually seems to pick ISO 400 where normal/auto would have used a shutter speed two stops slower and ISO 100. If sports mode is not cutting it, set ISO 800 and hope. If you don't get it at ISO 800, you won't get it with the default camera app. Some third party apps (I tried FV-5) allow you to specify ISO 1600, but image quality will be even worse. Really, just get a real camera out or get into better lighting.
Something else I have to mention is if you are using the modified camera app, if the guy did indeed manage to modify the actual amplification levels, what he did will reduce performance in regards to capturing moving objects as it will force a slower shutter speed - not entirely sure that guy knows what he is monkeying with.
My personal theory on the slow focus in low light is its being caused by the camera dropping below 1/30th of a second shutter speeds in favor of getting a proper exposure to be able focus precisely. If this is the case, forcing it to underexpose to get a smooth preview and faster focus could result in it being unable to focus.
There is a workaround for that, though, and focusing on moving objects: use the manual focus feature LG was so kind to include and set it to infinity focus. As long as you are about 3 feet or more from the object being photographed, everything will be in focus and there will be no shutter lag.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who is this ZigZagJoe Elite Recognized Dev?? If he thinks I'm a noob, please fix all the problems of the camera. Seems like He made the camera for the LG G2. If you did, man you are a bad engineer! !
Heatshiver said:
and provides a simple method to turn off the camera click sound.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not working in my f320k. Camera ver. 4.3.1
javahuan said:
Have you delete the .odex for two .apk?
Java
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks...deleting the odex files made camera working..
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Heatshiver said:
@xdabbeb - I would definitely welcome any new libraries that would help! Feel free to tell me to add things to this thread, as it should be yours (I just got too excited when I saw it and tried it!).
@KassaNovaKaine @Jishnu Sur @ZigZagJoe
The writer seems to be guessing, but this is my area of expertise so I can tell you that when you shoot a sports event you ALWAYS use a high shutter speed at a low aperture to capture every movement without showing blur yet having great lighting. So, obviously, Sports Mode is going to be "biased" towards high shutter speeds. Image quality never gets worse as ISO increases, noise increases as ISO increases, making the image look worse. As far as the slow lag theory, it is somewhat correct. The "lag" would refer to the drop in framerate, which looks like lag to our eyes. Test this by moving from a well-lit area to a poorly-lit area and you'll see the difference between 30/60fps and 15fps. Go back to a well-lit area and a second or two later the camera is back to 30/60fps again. 15fps always looks odd. Check out this video on YT, which compares 15fps to 30fps. I also shot video on my Galaxy Note II in a poorly-lit area, and while the lighting was horrible compared to my LG G2, the fps stayed at 30fps, explaining its smoothness. The focus issue seems to be greatly reliant on how it is setup in the software (I would say the way light is processed is a probable culprit). As noted by the commenter, setting to infinite focus gives a workaround for this but people should know that this can provide acceptable sharpness but have less items in focus. Exposure seems to have no consequences to image focus. I tested with -2.0, 0.0 & +2.0 values. I was able to focus without any issues. To that end, it seemed underexposure focused much faster, and slowed as exposure was increased (of course, at the sake of lighting). I am not sure if this what you wanted KassaNovaKaine, but I hope that helps.
NOTE: I also used "low aperture" to mean lower numbers. Normally, you would say small aperture for higher numbers and large aperture for small numbers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Image quality definitely gets worse as ISO increases - saturation and fine detail take a dive off a cliff, to say nothing of noise. Fine detail loss is then compounded by overzealous noise reduction. Quality loss is more noticeable in these cameras due to the tiny sensor.
Yes, it makes sense that sports mode would increase shutter speed, but without documentation to that effect, who knows what it might do? For all I knew it could just be applying filters and/or changing WB like the other modes seem to do. Not sure what landscape mode does, even. Probably modifies saturation. Exposure settings increasing and decreasing framerate would make sense as it'd be changing exposure by decreasing/increasing shutter speed. Only time you'd have things out of focus is if they are closer than 3 feet, which is the approximate hyperfocal length for these sensor/lens combinations. One of the only blessings of such a small sensor....
Misc data, the phone is able to capture at 1/10000 of a second if conditions permit - ie. taking a picture of a light bulb. Might be able to go a bit faster; some images has the speed recorded as 1/INT_MAX. 1/6s seems to be the minimum shutter speed.
If autofocus was made a bit more "brave", ie. bigger focus steps, it could help, at the expense of focus precision. Could possibly be gotten away with as focus doesn't need to be hyper precise on these things anyways. Trade offs no matter how you go though - you either get slow, but accurate AF, faster but less accurate AF, or fast AF that can't focus (minimum FPS raised). A bandaid fix would be to have the flash LED turn on and be used as an AF-assist lamp for focusing in low light always instead of only when flash is enabled. Of course, wouldn't help when the object isn't in range, but still an improvement.
@ZigZagJoe
Unfortunately, that's not how ISO works. An ISO increase increases noise, it does not desaturate or deteriorate fine detail. Quality is also not saturation. A person who knows about and performs color correction does not saturate a photo as it will hinder quality in post. That isn't to say that is what quality is. If saturation is how you like your pictures, that's fine, but that lends to a personal definition (albeit common) of quality, not a technical definition of quality. I would imagine it is pretty hard to determine detail loss if noise is covering it up to begin with? It would have to be drastically different for that to be apparent. Maybe you are mistaking compression artifacts for noise? Quality is about bitrates, the higher the bitrate the less compression artifacts, which means the better the detail. In either case, the ISO is not making it worse. So it is either bitrate variation you are talking about, or the post-processing system of the camera. The sensor is tiny, but that doesn't mean much other than more ISO noise than a larger sensor. If it did, then a 5DMKII would look leaps and bounds better than a 7D, but it doesn't. It is a matter of hardware. I can name two phones from last year with near-identical sized sensors, but their quality is vastly different.
I am not going to go over the modes as they do have purposes, but they will take a long time to explain. If you have used any basic cameras of the last decade you should know what they do. Manufacturers rarely deviate from these modes other than by name. Besides, the best photographers use the manual mode.
Exposure value would not just affect shutter speeds but ISO settings as well (as evident through simple testing). It should also affect aperture, but cameras on phones have a fixed aperture. However, while shutter speeds are initially changed on this phone, they stay constant. ISO then varies depending on the lighting situation. I took 4 videos of 2 locations, all at 30fps, two at +2 EV, and two at -2 EV, and each set in a light and near-black (dark) area. The results were that the light +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of compression artifacts from a bitrate of 13+MB/s. The dark +2 remained at 30fps, but showed a lot of noise. The light -2 changed to 24fps and showed much less compression artifacts at a bitrate of 17+MB/s. The dark -2 showed almost nothing at all, but the tiny emitting lights that were shown were smooth. These were all done with this mod and no focus issues were present.
I think the true issue with auto-focus primarily stems from IOS. This is the first 13MP to have it, so it's bound to have some kinks (hence the need for an update).
The more important issue is that people all want to complain about a camera phone. And when someone like @Jishnu Sur wants to help out, people insert the comments with false or half-truth information that others take as fact. Some could argue that there is no harm if just speculating, but smarter people know better. The bottom line is that the camera is great as it is. If you want a better AF, get a real camera. But those who get a real camera, and know how to use them, already know that manual focus is the way to go.
I hope this helps clear some things up, but any further comments should be left to PM or back on the thread where this actually started as I want this to be for the updated camera. Continuing this discussion is in part the fault of @KassaNovaKaine for bringing this up instead of just using a PM, and mine for wanting to correct it.
Been testing this update, and it is a vast improvement!
I had a chance so sift through the updated libs, etc., and have made a flashable zip with all the updated files.
This probably should have its own thread, but it doesn't make sense to create more clutter. @Heatshiver, if you don't mind, could you please update the title stating that this is the F320K11E Stock Camera + libs and remove the original download (as it was incomplete) to avoid any confusion. Actually, it would probably be a good idea to quote all of this as well so people don't have to read/search through the whole thread. I don't mind that you started it, as long as you field all the support questions
I have tested this on my VS98011A and it is a marked improvement over the original. All of my comments are in relation to that version of the software/camera.
What's new:
The app itself is more useful, time to focus is improved, low-light performance is better, etc. It's not perfect, but it's definitely an improvement. It seems like LG balanced things out. The video bit rate has been reduced, min fps increased, image quality increased, sharpness increased, audio bitrate increased, and more. Many of these changes are also in @Jishnu Sur's excellent mod, but with different values. Buy that guy a beer. He's been working on this camera for some time without even owning the device (and therefore without any of the benefit of the increased performance).
Included in the zip are a number of updated libs that deal with post-processing. If you use panorama, effects, etc. they may be improved with this. I don't use them much so I only verified they still work. Some of them (particularly some of the render script support libs), seem to be more for the stock Google gallery app and weren't even included in the VS98011A rom, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include them in case the newer gallery app uses them.
Instructions:
1) Do a nandroid, or see which files are being updated and manually back them up.
2) See #1. If you mess something up you'll wish you had.
3) Flash away. I tested this with TWRP on a VS98011A and it works perfectly.
4) If you have another variant, let us know here whether or not it works.
F320K11E Camera Update
*I will also send the files along to Jishnu separately for inclusion/analysis in his mod.
So, loss of detail. For an example, have a look at this comparison. Less severe in larger sensors (IE. DSLRs) and more severe in smaller sensors, you know, what phones use. To what degree detail is lost depends on the severity of processing. Noise obscuring detail = detail loss. NR processing smoothing the image = more detail loss. Safe to say, higher ISO, more detail lost.
Saturation - essentially, color purity. I'm not referring to manipulation of saturation. A washed out image lacks saturation. Yes, it is moronic to equate saturation = quality. But, my personal preference doesn't enter into this at all. Is color information lost in an ISO 3200 image when compared an ISO 100 image? Yes. To what degree depends on the sensor and processing performed. Most dedicated cameras keep it fairly well in check, but phones tend to have serious issues with saturation at higher ISOs (also, Foveon sensors).
It does depend on the sensor pedigree, though - for instance, nikon's midrange APS-C sensors handle their noise a lot better than canon's 18mp-based offerings. So for phones to have different image quality is not unexpected.
Uh, JPG artifacting is way different than noise, and we were not even talking about compression in the first place?
Modes - don't care what the other ones are for, I was simply mentioning their presence. Don't ever use them on my real camera, but don't exactly have a choice in regards to phone. I was unable to get any sort of significant difference out of sports mode when I first tried it.... rest of the modes seem to be purely post processing related, for all I know LG made sports mode the same way. Later, checking EXIF info, I did see it changing shutter speed and ISO, favoring faster shutter speeds, which is the expected behavior, it's just not got much leeway for adjustment.
If ISO isn't already maxed (you know, like it is in low-light situations), yes, exposure control could be adjusting ISO too. But in the context of preview in low light, the exposure control directly affects the preview FPS, so it can only be adjusting shutter speed as ISO is already maxed. Would expect a similar effect on video but haven't tested it. Autofocus speed is directly linked to preview FPS, which is in turn limited by shutter speed (currently).
Related
Had no idea the actual image quality could be tweaked. Was browsing the LG Optimus G forums and saw this:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2073013
Wow the improvement is noticeable. And with the camera being slightly disappointing on the Razr HD, any chance it could be similarly modded??
One thing that I noticed that helps is the default is 6MP 'widescreen'. Putting it on 8MP 'regualar' is still widescreen enough and seems to be less grainy.
Still trying to figure out what 'HDR' mode is.
HDR is high dynamic range. It gives the objects in the picture a glow or 'halo' effect, but works best in a well lit environment. Let me check how the XML is setup in the RAZR.
Okay I pulled the XML and the settings can definitely be improved, although whether or not it actually helps with the quality yet remains to be seen. Picture below is taken with the factory XML at 8 megapixels. I am modifying it right now and will push it to the phone, and hopefully if it doesn't result in a boot loop, take new picture with the modified XML.
http://tinypic.com/r/k3x0js/6
Okay my phone is still alive after replacing the XML file. Took picture with the same camera settings, see below. Initial findings show it doesn't seem to make a difference, so we're likely limited to the camera sensor itself. I'll leave the modified XML on my phone since it's not doing any harm. Note that the file size of the pictures are larger than the original set, which suggests that there less image compression being done and the photos are retaining as much details and definition as software allows.
http://tinypic.com/r/zu1t0g/6
Thanks for the effort, and I have the stock 4.2 camera, so does the mod stay the same?
BinarySauce said:
Thanks for the effort, and I have the stock 4.2 camera, so does the mod stay the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, pull your media_profiles.xml from /etc/, modify it and push it back. I do not advise simply copying and pasting the XML from the Optimus G thread as an improper configuration file can cause your phone to boot loop.
*sigh* I had high hopes for this thread as I have my eyes on the RAZR HD as a possible new phone, but the sub par camera is holding me back.
also make sure when modifying the XML file u use a program that won't change the character encoding (ie word or notepad). Use apps like notepad+ or notepad2
TRF-Inferno said:
Yes, pull your media_profiles.xml from /etc/, modify it and push it back. I do not advise simply copying and pasting the XML from the Optimus G thread as an improper configuration file can cause your phone to boot loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you use the same values from the Optimus G thread? And I think you're too close, back up to the point where some text looks blurry on the original camera and try again
BinarySauce said:
Did you use the same values from the Optimus G thread? And I think you're too close, back up to the point where some text looks blurry on the original camera and try again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, used the same value. 100 is the maximum allowed value for encoding, and it's pointless to allocate past 40 MB for image processing as a 8 megapixel RAW file doesn't even get that big.
I have taken other pictures as well (Outdoors, scenery, etc.), and I really can't see a noticeable difference besides the image file being larger (~2.1 MB opposed to 1.5 MB). The camera sensor is the limitation here.
Hello everybody!
I have been interested in buying this phone, I have been messing around with it at the store and everything checks out for me except for two things.
I noticed that even in manual mode I don't get live exposure preview. By that I mean that the display doesn't show the exposure I will get before I take the photo. For example on my current phone (Blackberry Priv with the stock android photo app) If I set the ISO and aperture to something that would obviously result in an under exposed photo the live view will accurately display an under exposed preview and same goes for over exposed settings. My phone even does this in automatic mode. If I touch a dark part of the frame my live view will expose higher and when I touch a bright part of the frame it will expose lower. This is really important to me and the phones at the store don't do this and it baffles me to say the least, also considering that their advertisements include their 101 DXOmark photo rating. Is there a way around this? I never liked any of the fancy camera apps in the play store because of how buggy and clunky they are, they didn't have a google account on them so I couldn't try.
The other issue is the ISO range is limited from 100 - 1600 as on my phone I get 50 - 6400. I don't expect that big of a range but it seems tiny compared to everything else.
At the store the Mix 2s as well as the Mix 2 had serious banding issues at ISO 200 and above, I tried all the Hz settings and that didn't change anything. I'm assuming that this is a very limited issue due to location and I would probably never see it from day to day life.
I'm planning on installing as stock of android if available, would this fix any of the issues? Of course I would like to maintain the excellent camera quality if there is a fix.
Thank you for all your help!
Hi,
Live exposure preview is working here with auto mode and manual mode... I'm on xiaomi.eu rom (it's based on Chinese stable). I also can only set ISO from 100 - 1600. However, I don't know what banding is and what the different frequencies change there so I can't say something about that
That's without changing exposure compensation right?
This a Taiwanese 6GB Mix 2s, I don't know what rom it has but I know that it has the play store. I will have to check what rom it uses.
I found a post from somebody else talking about using it on his 8GB Chinese phone quote "Global fastboot image (9.5.4.0) from the Taiwan MIUI website" I don't know if its the same rom as the xiaomi.eu.
I have attached a photo of the phone with banding on a picture I took. Banding is when the framerate doesn't line up with the frequency of the lights. Its the first time that I have experienced this but I'm probably worried over nothing.
Thanks for helping me out with this.
jonnyczi said:
That's without changing exposure compensation right?
This a Taiwanese 6GB Mix 2s, I don't know what rom it has but I know that it has the play store. I will have to check what rom it uses.
I found a post from somebody else talking about using it on his 8GB Chinese phone quote "Global fastboot image (9.5.4.0) from the Taiwan MIUI website" I don't know if its the same rom as the xiaomi.eu.
I have attached a photo of the phone with banding on a picture I took. Banding is when the framerate doesn't line up with the frequency of the lights. Its the first time that I have experienced this but I'm probably worried over nothing.
Thanks for helping me out with this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Global rom and xiaomi.eu rom are different roms, xiaomi.eu is a custom rom based on chinese stable but optimized for the use in western countrys(or any country outside china) with play services and playstore and so on. Beside the name it's not related to xiaomi so it's not official. My banding settings are on 50Hz (didn't change anything, was like this before) and I was not able to reproduce an effect like on your photo. The only setting I found related to exposure is "auto exposure settings" and it's set to "center weighted" don't know if that is what you meant with "That's without changing exposure compensation right?"
There are lot's of camera tests on youtube, maybe one of them can answer your questions better than me
Thank you for the info. I didn't know that the global and xiaomi.eu Roms were different. I wonder why the xiaomi.eu Rom isn't based on the global rom?
Exposure compensation can be changed by tapping on the image to focus, a circle will appear with two little arrows on the right. Slide the arrows up and down to change exposure compensation.
I will verify the auto exposure settings. Maybe this will fix the issue I'm having.
The problem with exposure is that in the camera live preview, the shutter speed is always set to automatic. The shutter speed change triggers only while thr phone is taking a picture.
Regarding banding, never had trouble. It might be appearing due to a very bad setup of halogen lights in the store, I think that these people that work there get a lot of eye strain
You are right, I went to a different store and in manual mode the exposure preview shutter speed/ISO wasn't changing. I'm sure that other phones use a combination of shutter speed and ISO to generate the preview because the image remains pretty smooth even when setting a long exposure.
I checked again for the live preview in automatic mode, when touching bright spots the exposure would decrease and touching dark spots would increase exposure, so at least we have that.
You are right about the lights they are very harsh in the first store. I couldn't reproduce the banding in the second store.
I can confirm that the Taiwanese phones use Global stable 9.5.4.0 and the model is: M1803D5XA
The phones are out of stock everywhere so I need to wait
Using global stable here. Changing ISO has immediate affects on the subject for me. In the viewfinder, I can see the difference between ISO 100-1600
skw5115 said:
Using global stable here. Changing ISO has immediate affects on the subject for me. In the viewfinder, I can see the difference between ISO 100-1600
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which version of Global Stable? The phone's here are running 9.5.4.0 Global Stable.
jonnyczi said:
Which version of Global Stable? The phone's here are running 9.5.4.0 Global Stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
9.5.18.0
Google Camera Port by BSG and @sannn111ty for the Poco f1
If you don't really know why you are here, You can download Gcam here. Gcam is short for Google's camera app that ships with the pixels. Google has been making incredible advances in camera software that they put on their Pixel devices. Most of the magic of the camera quality of pixel's reside in the High Dynamic Range google algorithms. However, this software is not officially available for other devices. BSG is the first developer to have adapted Gcam for other devices. He now has a MI 8, which is very siùilar to the Pocophone, so his ports actually work pretty well on this phone.
Here is a list of the features that make google's software stand apart from all the other stock and 3rd party camera apps. (Not all of them are available in the ports, but more appear with time).
HDR + and HDR+ Enhanced: That's what most people want Gcam for. The app takes multiple pictures at different exposure levels and combines them to get even lighting. This photography technique is available on many stock cams, but Google's custom implementation of it is generally regarded as highly superior.
Super Res Zoom: That is a "usebug" feature. When you're taking a picture, unless you have a tripod, you can't hold the phone perfectly still. Google uses this slight movement to take multiple shots, which are then combined to make out more detail for the final image. Where other OEMs add a second camera, Google gives better results with just one.
Night Sight: where HDR combines multiple under-exposed shots, Night Sight does the same thing with over-exposed and longer exposed images. This produces impossible-before shots with way less noise and blur in very low-light conditions. In Daylight, Night Sight Mode also applies Super res Zoom to the image, giving a lot more detail to your pictures.
ZSL HDR+: ZSL stands for Zero Shutter Lag. As HDR uses multiple pictures, you need to wait for the phone to snap those multiple shots. ZSL essentially means your phone is always taking pictures and has a couple already buffered when you hit the shutter, so you don't need to wait.
Portrait Mode: That's blurring that background of an image behind a face. this is a trend on smartphones, and most OEMs implement it by adding a second camera on the back. the two sensors produce a slightly different image and you can calculate from the difference where to blur the image. But Google has decided not to add a second sensor to their phones. The way they pull it off is by local Artificial intelligence to detect faces and blur the rest.
Photosphere: This is essentially a 360° Panorama. You point around you and the phone takes, then stitches together, multiple images in a sphere around you. You can then view the pictures by moving them around with your fingers, or moving around your phone like a window around you.
Panorama: That is self-explanatory. like everything else, Gcam takes excellent panoramas.
Video Recording: Gcam Records video at up to [email protected]
Slow-Motion: this port can take slow-motion videos at up to [email protected]
Top Shot: Google's AI is now so good it know what a good image is like. If you hit the shutter too Soon or too late, Google will suggest another shot. It will actually take a dozen out of which you can choose, but will also suggest the best one.
Photobooth: As the camera is continually shooting and waiting for you to tap the shutter, why couldn't it do this for you too? Once Photobooth is on, you just leave your phone and it will take the picture on its own when it "sees something interesting", like a smile. Essentially, it's an AI photograph for group shots where everyone can fit in and lets you use the back sensor instead of the selfie cam.
Tracking Autofocus : As the name implies, once you click on an object while filming, it will keep the focus on it however it moves.
I am not a developer, but the subforum is for gcam ports, so here is the one for the Pocophone, with instructions and
Go to this thread, wich always has the last version up.
You are welcome to post your amazing pictures here :
These ports are specifically made for the Pocophone F1. They might or might not work on your phone.
If you find that our APK's work well on your other model, you can open a thread for your phone to help others find a working APK faster and discuss model-specific issues.
If you have bugs, something isn't working correctly, please don't just post "Not Working !!!!" That doesn't help. Give details :
- The model of your Phone, your ROM if you're using one, any fixes installed;
- The name of the apk you're using;
- Screenshots or video recordings of the bug if you're able to;
- A logcat if there's a crash;
- Steps to reproduce the bug/crash;
It's really lag when opening any camera mod (except Panaroma and Video) and I could NOT take photos when pressing the button.
I'm Using Pocophone F1 with Global MIUI 10.1.3.0
File using: MGC_6.1.021_MI8_Vc.apk
the same issues.
Same issues for me, impossible to take photos, 1 frame per second refresh rate....
not working with several versions
When opening any camera mod (except Panaroma and Video) NOT possible take photos when pressing the button.
I'm Using Pocophone F1 , Android 9, with Global MIUI 10.1.3.0
Files used:
MGC_6.1.021_MI8_V2_plus3.apk
and
MGC_6.1.021_MI8_V2_plus.apk
and
MGC_6.1.021_MI8_V2a_plus.apk ; MGC_6.1.021_MI8_V2a+_plus.apk
cr0wdelex said:
It's really lag when opening any camera mod (except Panaroma and Video) and I could NOT take photos when pressing the button.
I'm Using Pocophone F1 with Global MIUI 10.1.3.0
File using: MGC_6.1.021_MI8_Vc.apk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try flashing twrp fix bro. It fixed my issue.
Try installing MIUI 10 v10.2.2.0 or higher , it should fix most of problems with gcam
Love this camera ...
I installed gcam and flashed twrp fix. I was using 10.1.3.0
After 10.2 I updated it and flashed twrp fix again for the lag issue.
Now I noticed that portrait mode is not working in stock camera. ?
i downloaded and it seems fine ...
Confused a bit, what is the difference between this and the one here :
https://forum.xda-developers.com/poco-f1/themes/b-s-g-google-camera-port-developed-mi-8-t3843130
Update to miui 10.2.2.0 i installed the same version of gcam on miui 10.1.3.0 and it didnt work i manually updated to miui 10.2.2.0 and it worked to install it just use android studs guide
Maybe a dumb question.? How is "Motion" in GCam working? Is it working at all? I have never found any of these short videos. Where are they stored? I'm using a Pocophone F1.
Thank you
Working fine with poco rom stock mui 10.3.6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I have a problem with both stock cam and Gcam, both pictures in the link are taken extremely close to the "first obstacle", a flower in one and plants in the other. In the flowers picture everything else gets blurred, in the plants picture where there is no clear focus object everything looks crispy.
I have noticed this with a lot of my photos, if there is something stealing the attention the camera blurs everything else too much, I want everything in my pictures to always be crispy ... how do I do that?
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
manor7777 said:
@AurioDK just use tap to focus, when you are taking a photo, tap the part of the screen you want to focus. Works for the front camera too if you take some pics there
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But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance?
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You can use Pro mode (swipe up at bottom of camera app). It will take longer to get a shot, but if you were using a dslr I would expect the same. Its the 3rd option in pro mode, a focus wheel with very nice haptic feedback.
AurioDK said:
But I don´t want to focus on anything usually, I just want the picture to be all crispy like the "plant" one. Should I just click on the sky or some object in the distance? The funny thing is that I don´t have this problem with indoor pictures, only outdoors.
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Click to collapse
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
AurioDK said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKvnpp9ohD4zT45DA
I just always use normal mode without touching anything else, don´t know much about photography, I just want the blurriness gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I little reading on how depth of field works may answer your question and also help you take the pictures with desired results. There is an easy read at:
https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/
redpoint73 said:
You've got the terms reversed somewhat. What you want is everything in focus, not 'non focused'. If something is not in focus, it is blurry. You seem to be replacing the word "focus" with "crispy" which is just making up words and confusing the issue. I read the thread title to mean you want everything in the photo to be blurry (which is what it is saying in reality) which would just make it look like the camera is broken!
If your distance to the subject is very small, and the background is very far, you aren't going to be able to get both in focus. It's just the physics of how lenses/cameras work. If you change the focus point to a distant object, the subject (near object) will be blurry. You can't focus on both, if they are too far apart.
The reason you don't see this problem indoors, is due to the fact that the background is much closer. It's the distance between the subject and the background (particular outdoors, where the background tends to be much farther away) that is causing the background to blur. Find an indoor setting, with the same distance (between subject and background) and I guarantee that you will have the same result (blurry background).
The closer the objects in the photo are to each other (distance to the camera) the easier it is to get them both in focus. You can decrease the background blur, by increasing your distance to the subject (near object) but you may lose the intended composition. Using the "Pro" mode as another suggested, is also a good idea. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) and minimal optical zoom. Since both aperture and focal length (optical zoom) both affect the depth of field (which in turn determines how blurry the background will be). In fact, I can see from the photo metadata in your gallery, that the photos are taken at f/1.65, which is a very large aperture, and maximizes background blur. Force the f-stop to a larger value in "Pro" mode, and you will likely see the background blur decrease. Although distance to subject, and distance of the background are still major factors.
Also keeping in mind that changing the f-stop will also affect the shutter speed and ISO. They are all inter-dependent, and known as the "exposure triangle". So you may need to manipulate the ISO or shutter speed to achieve the desired results.
Note: Made some major edits to the post. I noticed the pics in the gallery are taken at f/1.65 (presumably on automatic settings), which may be a major factor in the background blur. Somewhat changed some of my thinking on how to get the results that are desired by the user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out how, your post gave me the answer. It´s as you said, I need to keep a certain distance to the closest object and the margin between an "all focus" and "object focus only" picture is very small. I played a bit with a coke bottle on a lawn to get a feeling and I think I now have it. I finally managed to get the pictures I wanted, it´s just a matter of keeping the closest object a bit further away. Thank you.
Hello guys
The BSG versions of the Gcam mod works really stable on our device. But there aren't optimized configs available, so the colors do need to get a little bit tweaked. In the newest versions, it's possible to save and load configs. So it would be nice if we can test some settings out. I also tried it, so you can use it as a base if you want.
Some notes about the changes:
SlibP Custom lib
some settings in "Additional modules settings" (much more to try out there, that's the main place to play around)
activated instantaneous hdr+ enhanced (hdr+ enhanced but without loading time [ZSL], but viewfinder lags a little bit while rendering the final image because of the phone's performance)
Location to place config file: \Download\MGC.8.1.101_Configs
Used Gcam version: https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-bsg/f/dl16/
There is also a thread for the A52 5G. Because both devices use the same cameras, it would be great to have one place to tinker.
Which is the apk I have to download? Why are there so many options?
Is it OK to download the fist one?
Wierd, the Samsung cam has way more HDR.
LanguageSoez said:
Which is the apk I have to download? Why are there so many options?
Is it OK to download the fist one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some manufacturers only give access to the cameras for specific package names. With the Samsung ones, you should be on the safe side. You can also install different versions with different names to make tests
LanguageSoez said:
Wierd, the Samsung cam has way more HDR.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to disable "instantaneous hdr+ enhanced" and make sure hdr+ enhanced is activated. I think the google stock libs are a little bit brighter, so it should also look more like HDR. There's also a setting to change how many pictures are combined for a HDR+ image, try to increase the value. For me, too much of an HDR effect makes the image unnatural
Do the app always need to restart everytime changing lense ? And I got weird flashes on screen while trying to take a picture.
phoberus said:
Try to disable "instantaneous hdr+ enhanced" and make sure hdr+ enhanced is activated. I think the google stock libs are a little bit brighter, so it should also look more like HDR. There's also a setting to change how many pictures are combined for a HDR+ image, try to increase the value. For me, too much of an HDR effect makes the image unnatural
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually agree that Samsung's pictures look better (as in more accurate to real life) when in bright conditions. GCam has slightly lower noise, but no matter what HDR mode I choose, Samsung still has better HDR and the picture looks brighter overall. GCam's night mode is much better, though.
First one is Samsung, second is Gcam. Samsung's colours are closer to life. Keep in mind that the houses are brightly lit, as this was taken in the morning and they're facing East. For example the flowers in the pot in the balcony of the left house look very bright and vivid IRL. (The sharpness of the shadows near the roof is likely due to clouds moving)
First one is Samsungs, second is Gcam HDR+, third is Gcam HDR+ Enhanced
Both Gcam HDR+ Enhanced (7 or 15 frames doesn't do much), but first one with Google's AWB (like the previous ones), second one without. The second one looks much better, but a little over-saturated. One thing I did notice in the configs is that the AWB is set for a Sony IMX686 sensor, which I don't know if it is correct. I've been unable to find details on the sensor used in the A52. In any case, It seems that the takeaway here is to keep Google's AWB off.
These were all taken using @phoberus 's config file.
ImGonnaTryScience said:
I actually agree that Samsung's pictures look better (as in more accurate to real life) when in bright conditions. GCam has slightly lower noise, but no matter what HDR mode I choose, Samsung still has better HDR and the picture looks brighter overall. GCam's night mode is much better, though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the testing. I can confirm that the brightness and colors are not quite good yet. But almost everything should be adjustable. So we still have to test a bit. The sensor I got from gsmarena.com, but is just a guess from them. By default, Pixel2 would be active, which is certainly not correct, but also worked.
Brightness correction: Additional modules settings > Lens x > Exposure compensation
saturation: Additional modules settings > Lens x > Ram Patcher > Saturation (off means it gets the variables from the lib, there are also other nice settings there to create our own lib)
phoberus said:
Thanks for the testing. I can confirm that the brightness and colors are not quite good yet. But almost everything should be adjustable. So we still have to test a bit. The sensor I got from gsmarena.com, but is just a guess from them. By default, Pixel2 would be active, which is certainly not correct, but also worked.
Brightness correction: Additional modules settings > Lens x > Exposure compensation
saturation: Additional modules settings > Lens x > Ram Patcher > Saturation (off means it gets the variables from the lib, there are also other nice settings there to create our own lib)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When can we expect a stable optimized and stable gcam for our device. Will you please try contacting gcam developers personally? And also, please drop a link of the gcam you think to be the best one till now.
mushfiqurmasum said:
When can we expect a stable optimized and stable gcam for our device. Will you please try contacting gcam developers personally? And also, please drop a link of the gcam you think to be the best one till now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BSG is only in a Russian forum active. Arnova8G2 also makes good builds, but he only enables the app for the phones he has enough testers. We could ask him here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/app-arnova8g2s-google-camera-port.3862448/
Device name: Galaxy A52
Can we get a port for Galaxy A52 4G please?
fix choppy/stuck wide angle and front camera by going into additional settings and changing camera2API level to Level3.. scan3d works fine. but pictures are dark, something with whitebalance
> used MGC_8.1.101_A9_GVt_ruler_libs.apk
> A52 4G / LTE
phoberus' config crashes my GCam viewfinder. I can't test the actual image quality yet since it's the middle of the night here as I'm posting this message.
So I tried Nikita's version, in terms of Color and HDR (default) it's the closest to the default camera app. I'm still playing around with the settings, so pictures to follow.
So, M51 has a similar camera setup with A52 so I thought I'd use a GCAM version from the M51 GCAM thread. Just testing Night mode and it's very clear that GCAM (right) works better. I'll edit this post to include more samples later.
Valthek said:
So, M51 has a similar camera setup with A52 so I thought I'd use a GCAM version from the M51 GCAM thread. Just testing Night mode and it's very clear that GCAM (right) works better. I'll edit this post to include more samples later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any version of GCAM I tried works better in night mode than the default camera. The problems I have is with in brightly lit scenes.
ImGonnaTryScience said:
Any version of GCAM I tried works better in night mode than the default camera. The problems I have is with in brightly lit scenes.
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Click to collapse
I actually tried a version of Greatness' GCAM and produced better daytime pictures, color was somewhat natural but it had better details (not noise). Unfortunately, I can't get the wide-angle lens and videos to work so I scrapped it.
I honestly don't mind the issues regarding color/hdr issues since a quick application of a vibrance filter is almost indistinguishable from the default cam. I mean it could be what the default samsung camera app is doing.
Edit: Also strange thing, low light (outdoor dusk scenario) and I get plenty of noise on GCAM compared to the default cam.